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The Chouara tannery in the Fes medina from above: rows of white and dye-coloured vats among the old houses

Honest Morocco writing, by people who live here.

No top-10 listicles.

Photo: Uwe Brodrecht, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Slow, opinionated dispatches on when to come, where to go first, what to skip and how to spend your dirhams well. Read before you book — and certainly before you pack.

Latest from the journal.

One slow, in-house piece every month. No commissioned writers, no sponsored takes — just the answers we already give our guests on WhatsApp, written down properly.

Older pieces, still useful.

Re-read every season by our team. If anything is out of date we annotate it at the top of the piece — Morocco changes slowly, but it does change.

Desert

4 pieces

Practical

12 pieces
  1. A shop of lanterns, rugs and leather in the Habous quarter of Casablanca

    June 2026 · 8 min read

    How to haggle in the souks (without getting it wrong)

    The etiquette and the mechanics of bargaining — fair price ranges, the phrases that help, what's actually fixed-price, the set-ups to sidestep, and why walking away is your strongest move.

  2. Glasses of Moroccan mint tea

    May 2026 · 6 min read

    How much to tip in Morocco: a practical guide

    Guides, drivers, riads, camps, restaurants — who to tip, how much, and in what currency. The honest, no-guesswork numbers we give our own guests before every trip.

  3. A shop of lanterns, rugs and leather in the Habous quarter of Casablanca

    June 2026 · 7 min read

    What to pack for Morocco, by season and region

    No 'breathable convertible trousers'. A real packing list that changes with the month and the route — medina, mountains, coast and desert all ask for different things.

  4. Place Mohammed V in downtown Casablanca: the fountain and the clock tower of the Wilaya

    March 2025 · 7 min read

    Getting Around Casablanca — The Tram, Taxis & Trains

    How to get around Casablanca: the modern Casa Tram network, red petits taxis and shared grands taxis, the two main train stations (Casa-Port and Casa-Voyageurs), the airport train from Mohammed V, ride apps and walking the central and Corniche areas.

  5. The minaret of the Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca, framed by a carved arch at dusk

    March 2025 · 8 min read

    Things to Know Before Visiting Casablanca — What to Expect from the Big City

    Honest things to know before visiting Casablanca: it's Morocco's modern business metropolis, not a postcard medina. What to expect — the Hassan II Mosque, the Art-Deco downtown, the Ain Diab Corniche, the food scene, heavy traffic and the tram, a cosmopolitan café culture, dress, cash and cards.

  6. The departures area of Terminal 1 at Mohammed V International Airport, Casablanca

    April 2025 · 7 min read

    Casablanca Layover Guide: What to Do Between Flights

    Long layover at Mohammed V Airport (CMN)? Whether you can leave the airport, visa and re-entry checks, the airport train vs a taxi, how much time you really need, and seeing the Hassan II Mosque — with honest buffers for immigration and traffic.

  7. The departures area of Terminal 1 at Mohammed V International Airport, Casablanca

    June 2026 · 8 min read

    How to Get from Casablanca Airport (CMN) to the City & Marrakech

    Every way from Mohammed V Airport (CMN) into the city and on to Marrakech: the ONCF airport train via Casa-Voyageurs, official taxis and private door-to-door transfers — with honest journey times, the 240 km A3 drive, and which to choose.

  8. The Koutoubia Mosque and its minaret in Marrakech, in late-afternoon light

    June 2026 · 8 min read

    How to get from Casablanca to Marrakech — train, Al Boraq & driving

    Every honest way to cover the 240 km from central Casablanca to Marrakech: the ONCF intercity train from Casa-Voyageurs (about 2h40–3h), where the Al Boraq high-speed line actually fits, the A3 motorway drive and the bus — with real times and which to choose.

  9. An Al Boraq high-speed train at the platform of Tanger Ville station

    June 2026 · 9 min read

    How do you get around Morocco — train, bus or private driver?

    A practical rundown of getting around Morocco: the Al Boraq high-speed line (Tangier–Rabat–Casablanca), conventional ONCF trains to Fes, Meknes and Marrakech, the CTM and Supratours buses that reach where trains don't, grands and petits taxis, when a private driver makes the most sense for the south and the desert (no railway runs south of Marrakech), domestic flights, and getting from Casablanca airport into the city — with times and fares hedged to the official sources.

  10. A shop of lanterns, rugs and leather in the Habous quarter of Casablanca

    June 2026 · 8 min read

    Is Morocco cash or card, and where do you get dirhams?

    An honest, practical answer to money in Morocco: it's still largely a cash economy, the dirham (MAD) is a closed currency you get on arrival from ATMs or official exchange bureaux, and cards work in hotels, bigger restaurants and modern shops but rarely in the souks, taxis or rural areas. Plus how to budget in qualitative tiers, tipping, haggling and the situations to watch for — amounts kept general, with a steer to check current rates.

  11. The departures area of Terminal 1 at Mohammed V International Airport, Casablanca

    June 2026 · 8 min read

    Do you need a SIM card in Morocco, and is the Wi-Fi any good?

    For reliable data, buy a cheap local prepaid SIM (Maroc Telecom, Orange or inwi) at the airport or in any city with your passport, or set up a travel eSIM before you fly. Wi-Fi is common in riads, hotels and cafés but can be patchy, so mobile data is worth having. Plus local SIM vs eSIM, the three networks, 4G and 5G status, where to buy on arrival and the Wi-Fi reality — fast-moving specifics kept general, with a steer to check current coverage and prices.

Fes

1 piece

Food

3 pieces
  1. A vegetable tagine with olives, carrots and green beans in its clay dish

    June 2026 · 9 min read

    Moroccan food beyond the tagine

    Bessara at dawn, mechoui, seven-vegetable couscous on a Friday, the street-food stalls worth queuing for — what to order, where, and how to eat well whatever your diet.

  2. A vegetable tagine with olives, carrots and green beans in its clay dish

    June 2026 · 9 min read

    A Marrakech food guide: what and where to eat

    Jemaa el-Fnaa stalls, the best tagine and tangia, where locals actually eat, street snacks, and the rooftop tables worth the splurge — how to eat well in the Red City.

  3. A plate of Moroccan couscous with vegetables

    March 2025 · 8 min read

    What to Eat in Casablanca — Seafood, Markets & the Cosmopolitan Table

    A Casablanca food guide built around the city's own identity: Atlantic seafood, the Marché Central where you pick your fish, port and Sqala dining, French-colonial café and brasserie culture, street food (sardine sandwiches, bocadillos, snail soup) and modern Moroccan fine dining.

Atlas

1 piece

Coast

1 piece
  1. The square stone tower of the Skala du Port in Essaouira above the fishing harbour, packed with blue wooden boats

    June 2026 · 7 min read

    An Essaouira weekend: ramparts, wind and gnaoua

    Three hours from Marrakech, the Atlantic's most likeable town — fortified ramparts, a working fishing port, kitesurf wind and a music soul. How to spend a perfect 48 hours.

Planning

10 pieces
  1. Blue-painted steps in the medina of Chefchaouen, between flower pots, tiled walls and a zellige-framed doorway

    June 2026 · 9 min read

    Is Morocco safe in 2026? An honest answer

    The honest, current picture — solo and women travellers, the common souk set-ups, which areas to know about, health and the road. What we actually tell our own guests.

  2. Msemen flatbread with honey and a glass of mint tea

    June 2026 · 8 min read

    Morocco on a budget: what it really costs

    Daily spend, where the money goes and the honest ways to save without missing the point of the trip — with sample budgets in USD for shoestring, mid-range and comfortable.

  3. Sunset over the Atlantic from Tamaris beach at Dar Bouazza, west of Casablanca

    March 2025 · 7 min read

    The Best Time to Visit Casablanca — A Month-by-Month Guide

    When to visit Casablanca, month by month: the city's mild Atlantic climate, warm summers with morning sea-cloud, mild wet winters, and why spring and autumn are the most reliable. Typical temperatures, what to pack and how to plan.

  4. Sunset over the Atlantic from Tamaris beach at Dar Bouazza, west of Casablanca

    April 2025 · 7 min read

    Casablanca in Summer: Sea Breeze & the Corniche

    While the interior bakes, the Atlantic keeps Casablanca comfortably warm — humid and hazy, but milder than Marrakech or Fès. The Aïn Diab Corniche at its liveliest, the Hassan II Mosque in summer light, and honest notes on a working city that isn't a beach resort.

  5. Place Mohammed V in downtown Casablanca: the fountain and the clock tower of the Wilaya

    March 2025 · 7 min read

    Where to Stay in Casablanca — A Neighbourhood Guide

    A neighbourhood-by-neighbourhood guide to where to stay in Casablanca: the Art-Deco downtown centre, the Corniche at Ain Diab, Gauthier and Maarif, and near Casa-Port station — which area suits which kind of trip.

  6. Sunset over the Atlantic from Tamaris beach at Dar Bouazza, west of Casablanca

    April 2025 · 7 min read

    How many days do you need in Casablanca?

    An honest trip-length guide. Casablanca is Morocco's modern gateway city, not a multi-day sightseeing destination — half a day to a day suits most visitors. The Hassan II Mosque, the Art-Deco downtown and the Corniche, plus when two days (and a Rabat day trip) make sense.

  7. The Hassan Tower in Rabat and the rows of column stumps of the unfinished mosque around it, under a blue sky

    June 2026 · 8 min read

    The best day trips from Casablanca: Rabat, the coast & beyond

    Ranked day trips from Casablanca with honest distances and times: Rabat's monuments under an hour away by train, the Portuguese cistern at El Jadida, the oyster lagoon at Oualidia, art-filled Azemmour — and why Marrakech is better as an overnight than a day.

  8. The white rooftops and apartment blocks of central Casablanca, with the minaret of the Hassan II Mosque against the Atlantic beyond

    June 2026 · 9 min read

    Visiting Casablanca for the 2030 World Cup: an early planning guide

    Morocco is co-hosting the 2030 FIFA World Cup with Spain and Portugal, and Casablanca is a host city with a major new stadium under construction. Honest, forward-planning guidance — what's confirmed, what isn't yet, how early to book, where to stay, what to do around the matches and getting around — with everything World-Cup-specific hedged until officially announced.

  9. The departures area of Terminal 1 at Mohammed V International Airport, Casablanca

    June 2026 · 8 min read

    Do I need a visa to visit Morocco, and how long can I stay?

    An honest walkthrough of entering Morocco: who can visit visa-free and for how long (the 90-day norm), what the AEVM electronic authorisation is and who it affects, passport validity, what to have ready, what immigration is like at Casablanca (CMN), and how to extend — every rule hedged, with a clear steer to confirm with official sources before you travel.

  10. People strolling along the Boulevard de la Corniche in Ain Diab, Casablanca

    June 2026 · 8 min read

    Is Casablanca safe for tourists? An honest 2026 guide

    The honest picture: Casablanca is a normal, busy big city, and the real risks are petty theft and persistent touts, not violent crime. Which areas are easy, how to handle taxis and scams, solo and women travellers, after-dark habits, the traffic — and the Moroccan emergency numbers worth saving.

Marrakech

2 pieces
  1. The Koutoubia Mosque and its minaret in Marrakech, in late-afternoon light

    June 2026 · 7 min read

    How to choose a riad in Marrakech

    What a riad actually is, which neighbourhoods suit which travellers, and what to look for before you book — so you get the courtyard, the calm and the location right.

Itineraries

1 piece
  1. Orange sand dunes of the Erg Chebbi near Merzouga, with tufts of grass in the hollows

    June 2026 · 11 min read

    A 7-day Morocco itinerary that actually works

    The classic one-week loop, day by day — Marrakech, the High Atlas, Aït Ben Haddou, the Dades, the Merzouga dunes and Fes — with honest drive times and what to skip.

Culture

3 pieces
  1. Glasses of Moroccan mint tea

    June 2026 · 6 min read

    The Moroccan mint tea ritual, explained

    Why it's poured from a height, what 'Berber whisky' means, how it's brewed and the etiquette of accepting a glass — the small ceremony at the heart of Moroccan hospitality.

  2. Orange sand dunes of the Erg Chebbi near Merzouga, with tufts of grass in the hollows

    June 2026 · 8 min read

    Morocco's best photography spots

    From the blue lanes of Chefchaouen to the dunes of Merzouga and the kasbahs of the south — where to shoot, when the light is right, and the etiquette of the lens.

  3. The white building of Rick's Café above the old medina wall in Casablanca, its name and palm-tree sign on the facade

    June 2026 · 8 min read

    Is Casablanca anything like the movie?

    The beloved 1942 film was shot entirely in Hollywood, never in Morocco — so the romantic, foggy Casablanca on screen is pure studio magic. But the real Rick's Café exists (opened 2004), and the real city has its own rewards: the Hassan II Mosque, an Art-Deco downtown and the Corniche. The film vs the place.

Family

1 piece
  1. Orange sand dunes of the Erg Chebbi near Merzouga, with tufts of grass in the hollows

    June 2026 · 9 min read

    Morocco with kids: an honest family guide

    Where to go, how to pace it, the riads that work for families, camel rides and food kids will actually eat — the practical things we tell parents before they come.

North

1 piece

Read enough? Let's plan it from Casablanca.

Tell us your dates and what caught your eye in these guides. A real person in Casablanca replies with an itinerary and a fixed written quote within 24 hours. Ask on WhatsApp

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